Rinse the rice repeatedly until the water is mostly clear. Soak it in warm, lightly salted water for 30-60 minutes, using the longer soaking time when working with devzira rice, then drain thoroughly.

Heat the oil in a heavy, wide-bottomed pot or Dutch oven until very hot. Brown the meat in batches so it sears rather than steams, then fry the onions until deep golden brown, about 8-12 minutes.

Add the carrots and cook for 5-8 minutes, stirring gently so the pieces soften without breaking apart. Add the cumin, optional coriander and pepper, plus some of the salt.

Pour in enough hot water to cover the meat and vegetables by roughly 1-2 cm. Add the whole garlic heads and optional barberries or raisins, bring the mixture to a boil, then simmer uncovered or partially covered for 35-45 minutes.

Spread the drained rice evenly over the zirvak without stirring it into the meat and carrots. Carefully add boiling water until it sits approximately 1-1.5 cm above the rice, then taste the liquid and add the remaining salt so it is noticeably well-seasoned.

Cook uncovered over medium-high heat for about 10-15 minutes, until most of the water has evaporated and the rice surface is visible. Gather the rice into a mound, make several holes through it with a spoon handle or chopstick, reduce the heat to very low, cover tightly, and steam for 20-25 minutes.

Turn off the heat and leave the covered pot to rest for 15-20 minutes. Gently mix the rice, carrots, and meat from the bottom upward, or invert the plov onto a large platter with rice first and the meat and carrots arranged on top.